Zambia

 

DAY THIRTY-FIVE – 29th October 2010

Mama Rula’s Camp

Trace got up to see the sunrise and then did a yoga session with a couple of the girls then went for an early morning swim.  We left camp at 8am stopping at the market on the way.  We added to our collection of African souvenirs:

A few bracelets and some salad servers – 750 Kwacha (about $4 USD) and jandels, Mike’s old shirt, grey pants and a t-shirt.

Back on the truck and off to the capital of Malawi, this is were we had lunch and picked up some snacks from the supermarket.  We crossed the boarder into Zambia and arrived at Mama Rula’s camp just outside of Chipata at 5ish.  We had a yummy pasta dish and salad for dinner then had an early night as we had another early start in the morning.

DAY THIRTY-SIX – 30th October 2010

Eurika Camp

Up at 5am and off by 6am.  Another long day of travel.  We arrived at Eurika campsite, in Lusaka at about 5pm. 

There were loads of zebra wondering around the campsite, so we got a few good snaps!

          

It was a quiet night after such a long day on the bus.

 

DAY THIRTY-SEVEN – 31st October 2010

Waterfront Campsite

Up at 4.30am – our body clocks are getting use to this!

We hit the road and at 11am it was time for a short stop at a small village to have a walk around, they sold lots of smoked fish.

Back in the truck we stopped at Livingston to drop Patrick our driver off as he had to go back home due to his brother passing away – very sad. 

We then carried onto Victoria Falls which was only 10 minutes drive.  We decided not to go in and do a day trip to Zimbabwe side instead as it is dry season and there is not a lot of water flowing over the falls.  One third of the falls is on the Zambia side and two thirds are on Zimbabwe side.

While the rest of the group were in the falls we wondered around the markets.  Trace traded a t-shirt for a Yamiyami necklace (this is the good luck charm of the region).  We arrived at Waterfront campsite about 4.30pm and went to the bar for a beverage.  The bar had a beautiful view which overlooked the Zambezi River.

 

DAY THIRTY-EIGHT – 1st November 2010

Waterfront Campsite

Up at 7ish for a cooked breakfast made by the campsite of bacon, eggs, sausages, baked beans, tomatoes, onions and toast – amazing and so delicious!  So much for loosing weight in Africa!!

We caught a taxi with Lauren (Canadian), Vicki (Kiwi), Liz (South African), and Claire (English) to Zambia/Zimbabwe boarder.  We then walked over the bridge which crossed the Zambezi River to the Zimbabwe customs office and paid for our visas.

Walking over the bridge 

In the border crossing

After passing through the boarder with no troubles we headed for the Victoria Falls, it was only a short walk up the road.  This side of the falls was amazing and blew us away, if it had of been in full swing we would have been breathless!

We spent about 2 and a half hours walking around the falls.  Here’s a few photos:

     

Then we walked into town to see the open air markets. . . . more shopping!  We ended up buying two giraffes for $45 USD and one of Mike’s t-shirts (fingers crossed we get them into NZ!).  We also got two bowls for $8 USD.

We also walked past these guys singing / playing african music.  Trace liked it so much she negotiated a price for one of their CDs and then joined them playing for a while… We have it all on video but unfortunately we can’t upload videos onto here.

Back in the taxi to camp at 4pm were we had a shower and relaxed before going out for dinner at a Pizza and Pasta Restaurant in Livingston.  This restaurant is a community project were they take kids off the street and teach them the hospitality business.  The food was divine and service was outstanding!

 

DAY THIRTY-NINE – 2nd November 2010

Waterfront Campsite

Our body clocks have been changed forever, we can’t sleep in!  We went to the Livingston Markets with Rory, Kate, Jewels and Tom, these were a bit of a disappointment, not as good as the ones we went to in Zimbabwe, probably a good thing otherwise we would have brought more!

We then decided to head to the Victoria Falls market as we had seen some African style masks there and wanted to buy them after not finding anything like them anywhere else.  We got them for $40 USD after the guy started at $120USD!! -  we are getting better at this!

That afternoon we chilled by the pool before heading out on a river cruise for Shaun’s 21st birthday.  This was a fixed price for as much booze as you could drink in 2 hours – dangerous!  Everyone had a great night!!

 

With our wonderful tour guide Maritjie

  Our Acacia group

DAY FORTY – 3rd November 2010

Waterfront Campsite

Feeling a little hung-over we got up and had some bacon and eggs which hit the spot.

Today it was time for some white water rafting, Mike finally convinced Trace to give it a go, she was a bit nervous about it all!

We were in the water at 9.30am on our 2nd rapid the guide tipped the boat on us and we all went flying.  Trace ended up in an air pocket under the boat which was a bit freaky but expected.

The whole trip was a blast, Mike absolutely loved it and would do it again, Trace on the other hand has ticked that box and wont be needing to do that again!

We were very exhausted after a long day on the river.  We spent the night packing (we have way too much stuff!), and changing truck.  We are now aboard Wami with our driver TJ and our guide Lauren with 4 other people (its a lot quieter).

Malawi

 

DAY THIRTY – 24th October 2010

Chitemba Town Camp

Happy Birthday Kate! 

Kate and Rory are an Aussie couple who we have become good friends with, it was Kate’s birthday today and to make the day even more of a celebration, Rory proposed! 

We left the camp at 7am and hit the road for yet another long day in the truck.  We crossed the boarder into Malawi, no visa required.  Once we had made it through the boarder crossing it was time to start celebrating!!  The last two hours of the trip flew by as everyone had a drink in their hand made water bottle cups – kiwi ingenuity shines again!

 

We arrived at Sunset Chitemba camp at about 4pm which was right on Lake Malawi, a beautiful spot.  Everyone put up their tent and then continued to celebrate at the bar.  We had a birthday dinner with caramel chocolate cake for desert – yummy!

 

DAY THIRTY-ONE – 25th October 2010

Kande Camp

Up and away by 8am.  Our clocks went backwards an hour when we reached Malawi so we got an extra hour sleep.  We stopped at markets on the way were we could trade items of clothing and other bits and pieces we had collected on the way.  We ended up getting a little carried away, there is just so much cool stuff!!

We got:

A wooden bowl – pink shirt, pens and 2000 Kawcha

Two Noahs Arch sets – B & H photo bag which we had picked up for free in New York on our way, pens and $30 USD

Chess table and pieces – two pairs Qantas socks, plastic forks from Europe, grey pants from gorilla trek and $60 USD

The young man who we bought the Chess set from

Not sure how we will get it all home – oh well!

We then stopped at the clothing markets (this is were all our old clothes come to from the clothing bins).  We had to get an outfit for a person of the group to wear which we had drawn out of a hat.  Yes imagine the worst clothes you have ever seen – these were at the top of everyone's list to get!

We arrived at Kande Camp at 4pm, this camp too is right on the lake.  Chris and Sean the two boys from England cooked us fajitas for dinner – there were so so good, Trace is missing her Mexican!

DAY THIRTY-TWO – 26th October 2010

Kande Beach Camp

We couldn’t sleep in – typical! When you have the opportunity to, you can’t!

The sun rises at some ridiculous hour here and then the tent gets hotter and hotter!!

After breakfast we walked down the beach to a kindergarten  which was run by an Australian lady.  The kids were so happy to see us and sang and danced for us.  They were served a massive plate of plain porridge for their meal while we were there, and ate most of it.  Seeing the children like this makes us appreciate home that much more!

It was decided that we would have a wedding celebration tonight with a roast pig for dinner (We hired a guy called Christopher Columbus 2nd (they all have strange names around here some of the others we meet were Donald Duck, Cheese on Toast, Superman and Mr Giraffe) to source, kill, prepare and roast on a spit over some coals. 

The rest of our day was spent reading, soaking up the sun and swimming – tough day at the office!

At 6pm we swapped outfits, Trace ended up with a lovely salmon pink African dress and Mike got a blue jumpsuit with a leopard print skirt – everyone loved his butt in this!!

We held a wedding ceremony for Rory and Kate, with wedding cake and speech – African style.  A fun night was had by all!

     

DAY THIRTY-THREE – 27th October 2010

Kande Beach Camp

Relaxing day . . .  did a bit of washing and updated the blog page. 

In the afternoon we hired a local boat for 500 Kwacha (about $3USD) each (Rory, Kate, Jewels, Tom and Claire).  We all paddled out to the island, the paddles were so small it took us a while to get out there.

We all swum and snorkelled around the island, there were so many pretty fish, Lake Malawi is said to have over 400 species of fish.

For dinner we went to Christopher Columbus 2nd’s house, his wife cooked a local meal of maize, rice, beef stew and beans.  We took a tour around his house and also meet his family along with a bunch of kids from the village who had gathered to see the Mozungos (white tourists).

 

DAY THIRTY-FOUR – 28th October 2010

Steps Beach Camp

Up to see the sunrise, it was so beautiful!  Then back to bed for a few hours before we packed up the tent and had breakfast. 

We left the camp at 8am stopping at the supermarket (very small) on the way.  We arrived at Steps Beach Camp at 1.30pm.  That afternoon we went for a swim and played frizbie, the water was so nice.

Tanzania

 

DAY NINETEEN – 13th October 2010

Arusha

Happy Birthday Trace!  Up at 6am, we hit the road at 7am.  Trace took some Imodium (brilliant stuff!!, don’t leave home destined for Africa without it!), Mike also decided to have a dose as he felt he was coming down in sympathy with Trace. . . . .

It was a bit of a long and bumpy ride to Arusha after crossing the boarder into Tanzania we arrived at the Snake Park campsite at 4pm.  We went and saw the Snake Park, there were some huge snakes and crocodiles.  In particular a very big python which had previously eaten a human and had photos of the human remains to prove it!!  Unfortunately the glass of the cage was a big too dirty for a photo.

 

That night we all had a few drinks and a birthday dinner and cake.  Trace had to do a “Ma’s Revenge” which tasted terrible, it had tequila, Tabasco sauce, and some other highly toxic spirits in it!  By the end of the night everyone had experienced this shot!  Trace still had squirty bum but didn’t let this hold her back, she fought on with great kiwi spirit . . . . probably benefited the next day as the alcohol went straight through!!

 

DAY TWENTY – 14th October 2010

Serengeti

Today we jumped in four 4WD vehicles and began our drive out to Serengeti National Park, passing through Ngoragora Crater on the way.  We stopped at a view point of the crater and some market shops. At one of the stops we were visited by this guy:

It’s one huge stalk! It sounded like a helicopter when it took off… It definitely wasn’t scared of us as it was chasing people around for their lunch! I think the wing span would be around 2m. Huge!

We game drove to our campsite in the heart of Serengeti National Park, seeing three leopards (YA we have now ticked off the big five!).

     

We also saw giraffes crossing the road, this is one of Trace’s favourite animals.

The campsite has no fence around it and the bathrooms were about 100 metres away from the tents so no bathroom stops tonight, back out came the Imodium, we are telling you never leave home without it!  That night we heard a few noises and were told the next morning it was lions, hyenas and buffalos wandering around eating by the tents. . . . .  nothing like being right in the middle of nature!

 

DAY TWENTY - ONE – 15th October 2010

Serengeti

Early start with breakfast at 6am, then in the 4WD for another game drive.  Today we spotted a female lion, and it seemed like something was in the air as after that we saw fighting giraffes, fighting zebra and leopard kill, although it was a long way away, we saw the leopard’s tail waving, elephants charging and trumpeting – they were so close to the 4WD it was crazy.

  As we headed back to the campsite a Hippo crossed the road in front of us, our driver had to brake otherwise we would have driven right into it!

Quick photo at lunch time

Once back at the campsite we packed up the tent and had some lunch.  On our way out of the park we spotted a cloud of dust and animals running.  We drove over as quickly as possible to witness the last minutes of cheetahs chasing an antelope.  They didn’t quite manage to catch it but they were so exhausted they rested in the shade of a tree 5m from the road so we got some amazing photos of a mother and 3 younger cheetahs!!

   

We made it to “Simba” Campsite at 6pm.  We were going to have a shower but as soon as Trace heard it was only cold water she was out, Mike still went for it though.  It was a cold night, we were all rugged up with our beanies and track pants on.

We had dinner which was cooked for us by our cooks which joined us just for this part of the trip.  After dinner we sat around the camp fire and chatted.

That night was shared with wort hogs munching grass outside our tent and every now and again the campsite dogs would chase them away.

 

DAY TWENTY-TWO – 16th October 2010

Ngorongoro Crater

Up at 6am and off for another game drive, this time in the crater itself.  This started our slow with a few spots of Rhino about 500 metres away.  Then all of a sudden Elle our driver got word on the radio that there were a pack of lions up the far end of the crater taking down a buffalo.  We raced off at lightening speed over the bumpy tracks, holding on for dear life!  Eventually we made it there but were so far away we need binoculars to see anything.  Every now and again we got to see the leg of the buffalo up in the air while the lions feasted on it.

After about half an hour of watching we headed off back into the crater.  On our travels we passed two lionesses and a cub on some burnt out grass that were basking in the sun, some hippos swimming and a cute little baby one.

As we continued our drive we saw a gathering of 4 WDs, so we went to exploring wondering what all the fuss was about.  To our amazement there sat two lions beside the a truck, taking a break in the shade.  As the trucks move so others could get a closer view the lions would move too so they kept in the shade.  Our guide told us to wind up the windows as we got nearer – That’s when you know you are close!

After that excitement we continued on our way and passed some Flamingos and Zebra, a highena eating some fresh kill.  A Rhino was spotted in the far distance.  This is the only one of the big 5 we haven’t managed to get close photo of . . .  maybe next time . . . .

     

We made our way back to Simba campsite and packed up our tent and had lunch.  As we had finished lunch and were heading back to the truck a huge elephant came up from the back of the campsite and feed on the food scraps which were left outside of the main building.  Then after he was satisfied with that he came out from the side of the building and started drinking from the top of the water tank.  This blew us all away, to have such a huge animals within metres of us without any protection was crazy!

Back in the 4WD and off to Arusha.  We arrived back at about 4pm and had a nice cold shower (it was so hot!) it was so nice to get all the dust off ourselves.  Everything we own is now dusty and dirty!!

Trace still had stomach cramps and was not feeling well, Mike was a bit better.  We had roast chicken and chocolate pudding for dinner – yummy!!

DAY TWENTY-THREE – 17th October 2010

Up at 7am, we went on a Masai village walk.  This started with a museum which displayed there houses and items they use for day to day living.  Their diet consists of meat, blood and milk – could you imagine it? It seems to work for them as the oldest man in there village is 98!!

Then we walked to the Masai village which consisted of several houses made of mud.  Some of the local boys did a dance for us, it was very interesting.

We boarded the truck at 10.30am and stopped at the heritage centre for the girls to go Tanzanite shopping (how fun!).  Trace got a 1 carrot tanzanite stone which is so pretty, and no people its not on the left finger (yet!)

After everyone had spent a small fortune we hopped back on the bus and headed for ??? campsite.  This was positioned right on the river . . . . We were told to keep away from the water as there are plenty of crocodiles in there. . . .Just great, Trace thought.  Mike accompanied Trace to the bathroom several times that night, she wasn’t going anywhere by herself!!

 

DAY TWENTY-FOUR – 18th October 2010

Da Salam

Up at 6am (again!) and on our way to Da Salam.  Trace spent the journey on the mattresses down the back of the truck as she was still not feeling well but is now on antibiotics so things should start getting better now!

It took us 5 hours to get to our lunch stop, buffet meal in a local village.

Back on the truck for another two hours, we finally arrived at Sunrise Beach camp at 5ish after catching a vehicle and person ferry across on the river which took about 5 minutes, why not build a bridge? . . . Apparently Africa doesn’t do bridges!

Everyone squashed onto the ferry… It only had to transport us maybe 100m.  We saw one guy miss it and just decide to swim instead! 

The campsite was beautiful and right on the beach – an amazing spot!  We all went straight for a swim and the water temperature was really warm.  That night we packed our bags for Zanzibar as the truck stayed at this campsite while we caught the ferry over.  We were all getting very excited about being on the beach!  We also updated our blog page to let everyone know we are still alive, although Trace a little bit worse for wear!

 

DAY TWENTY-FIVE – 19th October 2010

Zanzibar – Stone Town

Wake up call at 4.45am (we have come to know early mornings like nothing else on this trip!).  Trace misplaced the keys to the locker for a while which added a bit of stress to the packing and getting ready.  She finally found them inside her sleeping bag!

We boarded the 6am ferry back to Da Salam mainland then at 7.15am we boarded the ferry to Zanzibar – bring on the beach!  We arrived in Stone Town at 10am after a 2 hour ferry ride, which was relatively smooth.

That afternoon it was free time to do as we please.  We set off for the shops and bought five paintings and a few t-shirts for Mike.  Our bargaining got better as we went, Mike has even begun to enjoy it!

We took a break at midday and had some yummy Indian for lunch, then it was back out for a bit more shopping.

Mike playing checkers against the local pro. Mike always close but never really in it! They play some interesting rules over here though.

That evening we went to Africa House Bar to watch the sunset with a cocktail and the rest of the group.  Then we all went to the night fish market.  This was crazy, lots of stalls were set up with kebabs of different seafood and all the pushy sales men targeted us.  We tried snapper, lobster and white shark – they were all really fresh (you did have to be a little picky with your selection) and tasted good. 

 

   

We then headed back to out hotel, Karibu Inn (this means welcome) for some sleep.  At 4am Trace woke to bits on her arms and legs, we think it was an ant but he was never found and the bed was drenched in deet!

DAY TWENTY-SIX – 20th October 2010

Zanzibar – Sunset Beach

Up for hotel cooked breakfast, yes eggs were on the menu – again!  We have never eaten so many eggs in our life!

We had time to do a little bit more shopping before we caught a bus to the beach which took us about an hour and half to arrive.  This little spot was paradise, heaven on earth, it blew us away.  Crystal clear water, pure white sand . . . .

 

We checked into our hotel, it has the most amasing bed!  After a tent and mattress a good bed is bliss!!

We spent the afternoon swimming, reading and sunbathing.  Trace got her hair braided which took about two hours with three people working on it for the last hour.  Everyone is now mistaking her for Alesha Keys!   

 

DAY TWENTY-SEVEN – 21st October 2010

Zanzibar – Sunset Beach

We slept in a little then took a long stroll on the beach.  It was so beautiful, a lot of the locals were out fishing with spears and nets.  That afternoon we organised with Jess and Steve (Aussie couple) and Ang (Canadian) to go game fishing.  We set off at 1.30pm with a chilli bin of beers hoping for some big fish.  After a bit of debate it was decided Mike would take the first catch.  An hour in we had action . . .  Mike grabbed the rod and began to reel, after about 15 minutes we had a dolphin fish (Mahi Mahi as we call it in NZ) in the boat.  It weighted about 8kg and was about a metre long, here is the proof . . . .

         

  It changed colour once it was out of the water!

For the next four and a half hours we sat and waited . . . . and waited up and down up and down.  The swells were quite big and Trace was thankful Jess had given her a sea sick tablet!  We caught nothing for the rest of the trip which was a bit disappointing but we all had a good day out on the water and saw a group of huge yellow fin tuna jumping and one massive sail fish jumping too.

We took our catch to the restaurant at the resort and they cooked it for us for dinner, it was delicious!!

DAY TWENTY-EIGHT – 22nd October 2010

Da Salam

Trace woke and went for a stroll on the beach before breakfast it was so beautiful.  We had breaky then caught the bus and ferry back over to Da Salam.  Trace spent the entire journey outside at the back of the boat – it was a rough ride!

Once we had arrived back at camp we went for a swim and did some blog updates.  That evening there was a full moon and a clear sky!

 

DAY TWENTY-NINE – 23rd October 2010

Farmhouse Camp

4.30am wake up! On the road at 6am.  Today was another fun day in the truck!!  We got to farmhouse camp at 6.30pm – 12 hours in the cattle truck!!  We had an amazing dinner provided by the campsite in a 100 year old mud house over candle light, it has great ambience. 

The hot showers were amazing – almost the best we have had on this trip.  There was no electricity here so they used a fired to heat the water.